Jomalig

Polillo Group of Islands in Quezon Province is a cluster of 27 islands and islets. The farthest of which, and the first one facing the vast and raging Pacific Ocean is Jomalig, a beautiful secluded paradise surrounded by clear turquoise water and golden sand. Its raw, unspoiled beauty has captivated many travelers and backpackers. 

It’s just a little hellish getting to this island heaven.

I took 2 compensatory days off from the office so I could finally visit Jomalig. I’ve been wanting to visit the island since forever (or more specifically since a decade ago). Lagi rin namin to pinaplano ng mga ka-officemates ko, but puro artists yata lahat sila kasi lagi na lang drawing. So even though I was alone and without any boat and resort reservation, I just decided to do a DIY. I took a night bus bound for Infanta, enduring 5 hour land travel plus 2 hour pila sa bus station. Good thing is the bus now passes by Ungos Port in Real, the gateway to the island.

At the Port, I first paid the terminal fee then waited for almost an hour before I was able to secure a boat ticket. I was advised that the boat will leave at 7 am. Buti na lang maaga ako, I was able to get a good spot sa upper deck ng bangka kahit siksikan kami dun. The advantage of staying on the upper deck is pwede humilata doon, unlike sa lower deck na uupo ka lang sa chair at kasama mo pa ibang cargo, including motorcyle, bicycle, at kung ano-ano pa. Napuno na agad ang bangka ng 6 am kaya lumarga na kami 1 hour ahead of schedule.

I slept most of the time kasi wala naman ako kausap. Nabulabog na lang kaming mga pasahero sa kalagitnaan ng byahe ng biglang umulan. At dahil butas-butas ang trapal sa side namin ay natuluan kami, pati hinihigaan namin basa so napilitan na lang kaming sumiksik sa ibang pasahero na hindi inabot ng ulan. Afterwards biglang may nasagi ang elisi ng bangka and tumigil kami sa gitna ng dagat. I think that lasted for 20 minutes before naayos, so medyo nakakatakot din. Naisip ko tuloy na sana pumirmi na lang ako ng bahay dahil marami pa akong pangarap sa buhay hehe. After the incident, we were served a simple “fisherman’s lunch” of pork and kalabasa with rice (kasama sya sa binayarang pamasahe).  Tama nga ang nabasa ko sa isang organized travel tour “Bawal ang maarte, maselan at mainipin kasi literal na mahaba ang byahe sa boat at di biro ang travel.”

Our boat first docked in Patnanungan, another island municipality of Polillo, para magbaba ng mga pasahero. From the boat, the island looks promising. I hope one day soon, I could also explore the hidden jewels of Patnanungan.  

From Patnanungan, Jomalig is one-hour away na lang. And finally, after 6 hours of sea travel, we arrived on the island, very safe and sound. Pero hilong-hilo na ako dahil sa alon, sobrang haba ng byahe, uhaw, at gutom.

A local told me that before the island is known as “Humalik”. There’s a bittersweet love story behind the name. There was this local boy from a neighboring island who fell in love with a young girl. He wanted to kiss the girl. The girl agreed but on the condition that he walk by foot around the island. Agreeing to the challenge, he completed the grueling task, got the kiss he ever dreamt of but eventually died because of exhaustion. Ang saklap. As time passes by Humalik eventually became known as Jomalig. This story is slightly different from the one told by Angel Juarez. Sa kanya ko lang naman unang nalaman about Jomalig.

There are several resorts and homestays in the island, scattered in various beachfronts. My habal-habal guide Jayson was able to sway me to stay at Jimenez Beach Resort (formerly known as L&J Resort). Nung sinabi nyang “Sir doon na mismo sa tapat namin ang sunset!”, hindi na ako nakatanggi. His family actually owns the resort, which feels more like a homestay. I stayed in a duplex kubo for P500 per night. Electricity is between 1 pm to 5 am, more than enough time to charge cellphone and camera batteries. I was their only guest during my entire three day stay since it was off-season. His family members were so warm and accommodating. They also depend on fishing as a source of livelihood, so I was served with their freshest catch of lapu-lapu every meal time. The resort is ideally located in Salibungot, which is ilang tumbling lang nasa Salibungot Beach ka na. 

On my first day on the island, I already availed the habal-habal tour. Other option would be a boat tour if in group. I would have loved to take a boat tour but since mag-isa lang ako, the most practical would just be to take a habal-habal. Medyo makipot lang ang daan, at hindi lahat sementado, but I was surprised how lovely Jomalig’s inland is – from the hills, lake, and farms to native stilt houses and abandoned boats. Cows freely roam, and wild grasses glistens like gold in late sunny afternoon.      

I was brought by my guide to 7 must-visit spots in the island.

The “Puno ng Walang Forever” – a lone tree in the middle of a vast field, based on the millennial hugot #walangforever and dedicated for the broken-hearted and those who are bitter and do not believe in forever.    

The Golden Sand Beach is a nice beach picnic place, having golden sand, small rock formations and cottages.

Little Batanes (or Lingayen Cove) is a small cove with greenish-blue waters and towering rock formations on both ends of the beach. Just like Batanes, the winds and waves are much stronger in this part of the island.

The Little Boracay (or Alog White Sand Beach), is lined with little coconut trees and has fine white sand comparable to the world-famous beach. It also has swings and hammocks for those who want to relax and just enjoy the view.

Sadong is a picturesque fishing village.

The farthest among the destinations, Kanaway is a charming beach again with golden sand and unique rock formations and islets. These islets serve as habitat of hermit crabs and sea snails. During low tide, the sands form wave patterns or ripples that are exceptionally stunning.

Salibungot Beach is the most popular among the beaches, having a wide stretch of golden sand that goes for miles and complements Lamon Bay’s dazzling crystal-clear waters. I spent my second day swimming, walking along the shore, and sitting on the sand just mesmerized by the breathtaking view. Most of the time solong-solo ko ang beach. Pine trees also abound in this area. It used to have the colorful “We Love Jomalig” sign pero nung tinanong ko ang guide ko kung nasaang area sya ang sabi nya, inanod na daw nung minsang bumagyo. How sad, bihirang-bihira na lang talaga ngayon ang nag-la-last forever.

The dusks and sunsets I witnessed are nothing short of spectacular. They are too much and still never enough. I could stay for another day or two, and just do nothing but frolic on the beach and never get tired watching sundown.

I was even lucky to witness a broken rainbow. It’s a spectacle, a validation that even broken can still be beautiful. And on that very moment, I’ve forgotten what unhappy feels like.

                                   

From Manila, take Raymond bus (in Legarda) going to Infanta. Take the 10 pm or 11 pm bus. Get off at Ungos Port in Real, Quezon. Then take a 5-6 hour boat ride going to Jomalig. Boats leave as early as 6 am everyday. Better be at the port at least two hours, so you could get a good spot in the boat. Depending on the season, there could be 1-3 boats that depart daily. No reservations needed. There are several resorts in Jomalig but for me, still best to stay in Salibungot.