Ticao Island, Masbate

The Manila Galleons or Spanish trading ships, carrying the best of Philippine goods, sailed across China Sea and the Pacific Ocean for more than two centuries, from 1565 to 1815. Through all these years, the ships passed through the seas of Masbate in its voyages between Acapulco and Manila (and vice versa), most of them stopping for anchorage in Ticao Island.

The island, though low key, played an important part in Philippine history since the Spanish colonial times. It is also known as an archaeological landscape and an ecological frontier for possessing thousands of pre-colonial artifacts and for the conservation of manta rays, respectively. Composing of four municipalities, the island is one of Bicol’s best-kept secrets, boasting of white sand pristine beaches.  Ticao, by the way, was derived from Tigao tree which used to flourish in the island, and was used as poison baits for fishing in the olden days.  

One should bring a lot of patience (and allot ample of time) when travelling to Ticao, but I promise the reward is fulfilling. Coming from Manila, I was actually supposed to go to the island via Bulan- San Jacinto route but the only boat available during the time I arrived was going to Monreal. People at the port said that boat schedule is erratic, sometimes dependent on the weather, season, or number of passengers. Anyway the two municipalities are just adjacent – beautiful resorts are mostly located in San Jacinto; but the natural attractions are almost in or nearer Monreal.

My “home away from home” in the island was the beautiful and secluded Ticao Altamar in San Jacinto. The resort which means “High Seas” in Spanish, is named after its owner Marilyn Altarejos, a full-fledged Ticaoena. It is her family vacation house that was eventually converted into a resort to cater to the increasing number of divers and tourists visiting the island. It consists of a series of elegantly decorated and colorful beachfront cottages and villas. Amenities, which include a swimming pool, kayaks, beach swings, and boardwalk with gazebo, are also impressive. Staff are attentive and could dish up delectable food. Added bonus is their pack of friendly dogs which are always excited to see their human guests.

The resort also offers island hopping with their big boat that has a maximum capacity of 10 persons. I decided to just get a small boat at the port of Monreal, about 40 minutes away by habal-habal from Altamar. Monreal, located at the northernmost tip of Ticao, serves as an ideal staging point for island-hopping adventure around the northern islands and islets. There’s an LGU-sanctioned  standard rate of P3,500-4,000 (with tour guide) per whole-day island hopping good for four persons. The rate gets higher depending on the additional number of persons and the size of the boat. 

From the port, it took almost two hours, passing by small coastal communities and breathtaking rock formations, shallow caves and a seaside bird sanctuary, to reach our first destination.

The Catandayagan Falls, rising over 100 ft. in height, is so far the only documented waterfalls in the Philippines that cascade directly to the sea. My guide said that the falls look majestic during rainy season; unfortunately during summer the water that flows is meager.

Our second destination is the beautiful Borobangcaso, a rocky islet with powdery white coralline sand and a stunning rock formation made of limestones developed over centuries. From afar, it looks like a stack of books or cubes. I can’t help but climb on top of the rock formation and admire the 360 degree view of the surroundings. I also commenced swimming in the shallow pools beside the rocks.

Our third stop was the Paborito Islet, another equally beautiful swimming area with shallow, crystal-clear waters and a viewing deck overlooking the island and the bucolic coastal community of Mababoy. The islet also has fascinating but serated rock formations.

Our final stop was the the most paradisaical among the spots – the Halea Nature Park. The crescent-shaped island with fine white sand beach and clear turquoise waters, is teeming with rich marine ecosystem. I did not only have fun swimming but also thoroughly enjoyed interacting with and feeding the friendly and colorful fishes. I even saw a baby shark. According to my guide, harmless juvenile sharks, made the cove and the nearby islet as their shelter.    

By sheer chance, I also got to visit via habal-habal, the fine beaches in Batuan and San Fernando. I was happy to set foot in all the four municipalities of Ticao.

In the Bicol Region, Ticao may still be considered an underrated destination. Tourists mostly flock during summer but during off and rainy season, they are barely in sight. I never Imagined it to be such a great, unforgettable place with gentle people, jaw-dropping natural attractions, and glorious dusks and sunsets. When the day is clear, the silhouette  of Mayon could be seen from Altamar.

Having checked on my bucket list Ticao and Burias, that leaves me with the central and main island of Masbate to conquer. Well, someday soon.

From Manila, take Pilar or Bulan, Sorsogon-bound bus (DLTB or Philtranco in Cubao or Pasay). Better take an afternoon bus to arrive early in the morning in Sorsogon. In Pilar, there are boats mainly going to Monreal, Ticao (twice daily). In Bulan, most of the boats are bound for San Jacinto, Ticao (thrice daily). Although during weekend, there are also boats going to Monreal. Boat schedule is not fixed and sometimes varies depending on the weather and the number of passengers. Tips: For budget travelers, there are several inns and guest houses in San Jacinto and Monreal near their respective ports. There are also beach resorts in Batuan and San Fernando. When doing the island hopping, any municipality in Ticao could be a starting point; but better avail boat services in Monreal for proximity to tourists spots.

Altamar Beach Resort

San Jacinto, Ticao Island

Masbate

Tel. No.: 0917-5339719