“She was my
cream and I was her coffee and when you poured us together, it was something.”
That sticky note got my attention while I was having SGD Black coffee one cold and foggy morning at Coffee Heritage House, the first coffee-themed B&B and hostel in Sagada, Mt. Province. I was facing the Heritage House’s freedom wall almost filled with personal messages and hugots (some coffee-related) such as “Huwag kag titikim ng masarap para di ka maghanap.” “Sobrang cold dito sa Sagada pero wala nang mas lalamig pa sa crush ko.” “Bitter - minsan kape, madalas ikaw.”
I could still vividly remember that only a few months ago, while solitary enjoying the internationally award-winning caffeinated drink at SGD Bodega in Maginhawa, I was approached by the owner Rich Watanabe. He is an advocate and truly passionate about Sagada heirloom coffee; he even gave me a brief background on coffee making, their bodega coffee shop and their upcoming workshops. He said “Kung nag enjoy ka dito, mas mag e-enjoy ka sa Coffee Heritage House.” Newly harvested Sagada coffee beans are brought to CHH first before transported to be processed and roasted at SGD Bodega. “Bisita ka dun minsan pag umakyat ka ng Sagada.”
I smiled and replied “I will”. And keeping to my promise, that’s exactly what I did during Christmas break.
Opened in 2016, the Heritage House is run by the Coffee Heritage Project, an NGO that promotes fruitful collaboration among coffee farmers, traders, and relevant stakeholders. They have spent years building trust with the farming collective, who were historically taken advantage of by outside traders. Aside from providing warm and quaint accommodations, it also primarily serves as training and learning center for coffee enthusiasts with a goal of showcasing Sagada coffee.
An off-the beaten path, it is located more than 3 kilometers away from the town proper, a little bit far from the madding crowd. Having previously explored the caves, Kiltepan and viewing points, falls and hanging coffins, I now prefer a more serene, less adrenaline-rush vacation.
From the main road of Bangaan, it is a 10 minute uphill and downhill trail walk to the Heritage House, passing by a mini-forest of pine trees. Those with private cars could take the paved road up until the parking area of the Heritage House.
The Heritage House made of wood and cement, painted in white and red, has this colonial-modern look and feel. An added mystic charm is that it is surrounded by lush greenery or mist especially when the sun is resting. There is a prominent banner display inside the house proudly saying that their coffee won during the 3rd AVPA International Contest of Coffees Roasted in their Coffees of Origin held in Paris, France in 2017. Very impressive but of course I knew that already.
The reception area, coffee shop, reading nook and communal area with fireplace are interconnected and located on the ground floor.
They sell food products of Sagadans like Chunky peanut butter, strawberry jam, and banana chips.
But their bestseller is the coffee.
Heritage House serves only freshly and small batch roasted 100% Arabica beans. They are handpicked and naturally grown. Locals call it the native variety which has been growing for more than centuries already.
I personally witnessed two local farmers selling newly-harvested coffee beans to CHH. The coffee beans will eventually be roasted and packed at SGD Bodega.
By the way, SGD black coffee is free-flowing for stay-in guests.
Aside from coffee, CHH serves the most delectable coffee-inspired meals, most of which I’ve already tasted in their Maginhawa branch. Syempre must try ang adobo with coffee sauce and affogato (hot coffee with ice-cream).
The rooms of the Heritage House are located in the basement and on the ground and second floors. There are shared rooms and private rooms. I stayed in a cozy and clean private room, and spent most of the time either reading pocket books or watching Netflix.
At the back of the CHH, there is a trail that leads to a pine tree forest. It has a viewing deck that affords a great and pristine beauty of the mountain town. This is another part of Sagada only a few has discovered.
For the three days that I visited this trail, laging solong-solo ko ang lugar. Only puppies, birds and cows were my constant companions. The puppies were so adorable, they often lick my legs.
Leisurely walking also led me to the neighboring Aguid which boasts of spectacular views of verdant mountains and rice terraces.
Sometimes it is refreshing, invigorating when you are far away from people. When it is just you, the nature, and the sunrise.
And in case I
were broken hearted dito masarap namnamin ang mga salitang “One day your love
for yourself will outweigh the love that keeps you holding onto someone who
chooses to hurt you; One day the love for yourself will be your strength – That
love will be more than enough reason for you to walk away for good.”
From Manila, take Sagada-bound bus (Coda Bus Line station
in Cubao). Get off in Sagada town proper, then ride a jeepney bound for
Bangaan. Get off at Bangaan Elementary School. From the main road follow the
signage leading to CHH. Another option would be to walk from the town proper to
CCH.
Coffee Heritage House
Sitio Nadatngan, Brgy. Madongo
Sagada, Mt. Province
Tel. Nos.: 215-5708, 0977-3959189
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