I miss the time when I
was younger, not caring what I look like or worrying if anyone would like me. Lately,
I also miss the time when there was still no dinosaurs roaming around Pagudpud’s
Blue Lagoon area. Those who have been to the northernmost tip of Ilocos Norte would
know what I mean.
I like Blue Lagoon the
way it was almost two decades ago – raw, raging and without any concrete
structure in sight. I’m glad that despite all the developments, the beach still
remains blue and hypnotizing, the hills greener, and that Casa Consuelo still
welcomes old souls who prefer the quiet and seclusion.
In Spanish, casa means home, and consuelo comfort. The resort is owned by the family of Chad Tamayo, and was actually named after his late Lola Consuelo. But literally, it is a home away from home with decent and comfortable amenities.
The resort is 20 minutes away by tricycle from Pagudpud town proper, and situated on a quieter spot along the stretch of Maira-ira Beach shoreline. I remember when my colleagues and I dropped by the resort for late lunch two years ago, I was captivated with the place and promised to return and stay longer.
It is still Chad, friendly as ever, who manages the resort. Essentially, we both share the same view about the downside progress has brought in this once sleepy town. He also re-oriented me about the must-visit spots in the vicinity.
Since I was early for the check-in time, I just waited in the open pavilion and recreation area. I love its wooden furniture and homey-Ilokano touch. It also has books, board games, and sungka to keep the guests entertained. I was even given a go signal to swim in the adjoining small infinity pool.
The resort offers a number of accommodation types (family casa, triplex casa, duplex casa, loft villa), both modern and tropical in design. Most of the rooms, either good for couple or family, are usually fully air-conditioned with private bathroom, hot and cold shower, cable TV, and rattan hammock. I like the personal touches they’ve made in arranging the bed, even putting some fresh gumamela that matches with the beddings.
Staying overnight comes with a complimentary set breakfast served at their in-house restaurant called La Cocina. It serves their bestseller seafood platter and staple Ilokano dishes such as bagnet and longganisa. The restaurant is nicely adorned with paper money in various currencies, mostly with written heartfelt “thank you” messages from guests.
After feasting, I transferred to a cabana with hammock to relax.
And eventually soaked in the infinity pool.
The white sand beach fronting the resort is clean and teeming with coral reefs. It is really not that ideal for swimming because of the corals and rocks.
In the afternoon, when the tide subsided, I wade across the beach to reach Dos Hermanos (a Spanish term which means two brothers), two islets beside each other with natural pools and beautiful rock formations. A heartbreaking folklore, passed from generation to generation, tells of two brothers who were very close to each other that they promised to remain together until death. One day, they went fishing. But due to a storm they didn’t see coming, they got lost in the sea and eventually drowned. The extreme bond they shared touched the heart of a goddess, who turned the two into a pair of islets as seen today, still together.
Also nearby are the other natural attractions I revisited. The Bantay Abot Cave is a rocky hill with a huge hole in the middle resembling that of a cave entrance. This rock formation actually resulted from an earthquake that happened so many years ago.
A short distance from the cave is Timmangtang Rock, a bell-shaped rock formation also located along the seacoast.
There is actually a fertility folklore surrounding these points of interest. Couples who have difficulty of bearing a child are encouraged to visit all these places so they could eventually conceive a baby. Picture out Dos Hermanos, Bantay Abot and Timmangtang. They are visually inferred to as women’s breasts, female genitalia, male genetalia, respectively. Hmm, quite interesting!
The Maira-ira Cove or Blue Lagoon is the famed white sand-beach of Ilocos. It was once shortlisted as a potential location for the hit 80s movie of Brooke Shields, that’s why it was named as such. Also there are moments, that it is as calm as a lagoon, save for the times when there is Habagat or LPA. But whatever the season and despite being a contender now for a Jurassic Park movie setting, the beach is still a stunning blue.
By sundown, low tables and big colourful pillows ala picnic style are set-up on the beach for the guests’ use.
I love watching the natural spectacle right before my eyes – the gentle waves and the clouds morphing into fascinating shapes of humans or animals. Such breathtaking beauty can speak to the soul in hundred different ways.
And when the wind
softly blows, it was as if it whispered “remember who you were before the world
told you who to be.”
From Manila, take Florida bus bound for Pagudpud (bus station in Lacson
Ave., Sampaloc). Other alternative is to take a plane bound for Laoag and from
Laoag take another bus or van going to Pagudpud or Claveria. In Pagudpud town
proper or from the highway going to Blue Lagoon, take a tricycle to the resort.
Casa Consuelo Island Reef
Blue Lagoon, Sitio Baniaran, Brgy. Balaoi
Pagudpud, Ilocos Norte
Tel. No.: (077) 676-1868, 0918-9590757
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