Casa de Doña Upeng, Mangaldan, Pangasinan

If anybody asks me where to find the best tapa in town, I usually reply “Rodic’s or Taal”. When I recently visited Mangaldan, Pangasinan, I discovered that they also boast of their locally-made tapa known as pindang. I had my first taste of the famed tapa (verdict later) at Casa de Doña Upeng, the ancestral house (of one of the most prominent families in town) turned bed and breakfast place.

The casa was built in 1950, a few years after the country became independent from American sovereignty. It served as the home (the grandest during that time in the area) of the late Doña Guadalupe “Upeng” Bengzon Jimenez and her descendants. The Jimenez family is known for founding several establishments and real estate properties in Mangaldan - the Rural Bank of Mangaldan (located beside the casa), a memorial park, a residential subdivision and a rental building.

The house was lovingly restored in 2007 by Doña Upeng’s son, Dr. Vicente B. Jimenez (who also recently passed away), his wife and their children. And the good news - it is now open to guests who have always wondered what lies behind the gates of this elegant home. It is the third-generation members of the family who are now managing the property.

It usually takes six hours to reach the casa via commuter bus from Manila. Though a bit tired from the long trip, I was happy to be welcomed by Manang Josie, the kind and dedicated caretaker. I was the only guest during the entire duration of my stay, so I felt like a special visitor of the mansion. Manang Josie regaled me with the stories of the family and gave me a tour of the house.

Hard wood and quality materials were used in renovating the house – from the stairs, veranda, rooms to the living room - giving it a sophisticated but at the same time homey and vintage look and feel.

Different lights and fixtures, paintings and family portraits, and old doll collection of Doña Upeng adorn the sala. A grand piano sits elegantly in the receiving area.

The casa has five beautiful and spacious guests rooms, each with air conditioning and en suite shower facilities and could accommodate two to three persons on queen or double beds and day beds. Furnished with family heirlooms, guests will surely feel at home with the quaint and old world fixtures that add more charm to the rooms. Ate Josie recommended that I stay at Upeng’s Suite, the premiere room accommodation. It is tastefully decorated, clean and spotless. Indeed, I had a peaceful and relaxing stay.

The morning after, Ate Josie cooked me a hearty breakfast composed of pandesal with butter and jam, tsokolate de batirol, fresh fruits, rice, eggs, homemade achara, and two local delicacies of Pangasinan - Bonuan bangus and pindang. The bangus was tasty, as expected; the pindang tasted great too (although not as soft as that of Taal’s). Interestingly, it was only after I had my breakfast that I found out that pindang is made of carabao beef or carabeef. Oh no I ate the pambansang hayop ng Pilipinas! Honestly I’m not a fan of carabao meat so I felt a little betrayed by my own ignorance. Anyway, for its kind, pindang is still scrumptious.

The casa with its cozy function hall and landscaped garden, is also a recognized event’s place for weddings and parties in Mangaldan.

Nearby beaches that guests could access include San Fabian, Bonuan, Dagupan and Lingayen. Ate Josie told me that some of the guests would usually go to these beaches just for day tour.

  

Ate Josie also opened up about her illness. Earlier this year, she was diagnosed with breast cancer but she is hopeful that she will beat this ailment.  She is undergoing chemo and still thankful that the owners allowed her to be the caretaker of the house. She now realized that every moment matters and that life is often a beautiful struggle.

  

From Manila, take Dagupan (via Manaoag) bound bus (Victory Liner, Dagupan Bus or Solid North Bus terminals in Cubao or Pasay). Get off in Mangaldan town plaza. From the plaza or Dunkin Donuts stall, the casa is a short-walk away.

Casa de Doña Upeng

#9 J.L. de Guzman St.
Mangaldan, Pangasinan
Tel. No.: (075) 513-4606, 0930-1828165