Phuttal Residence and Ayutthaya, Thailand

Learning to ride the bicycle is what I considered my first greatest accomplishment in life (without getting any help from anyone). I was only eight then, happy and carefree. I never knew I could still relive that exact, same feeling when I visited the “ancient ruins city” of Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya, the old capital of Thailand.

Ayutthaya is just an hour-away by van or bus from Bangkok; a very convenient and ideal place to stay for a night or two for anyone who wants to get away from the city crowd and traffic. I’m glad I found via AirBnb, a charming river house to serve as my homebase in Ayutthaya – the Phuttal Residence.

Situated near Chao Praya River, Phuttal Residence is a lovely B&B place owned by a young Thai couple, Duke and Peeranut. If Filipinos are known for their “Filipino hospitality”, my hosts showed me “Thai hospitality” during my entire stay. They were helpful, and treated me like a friend.

The house is located in a big compound at the heart of the city, yet it feels like a hidden paradise, somewhere far and secluded. It is surrounded by lush, green trees and flowering plants, exuding a relaxing, laid-back and peaceful ambiance. It has an outdoor patio, a spacious living room artistically and colourfully decorated, a dining room with small library, and kitchen, where guests can cook any dishes they want. Wi-fi is also provided for free.

My favorite part of the house is the bedroom - cozy and could comfortably fit maximum of three persons. It is also adorned with black and white portrait photos of children taken by Duke, as well as an Astro Boy toy.       

After settling in, I started my two-day bike tour around Ayutthaya. I only had with me a tourist map provided by Duke with marks on the must-be visited spots.

Ayutthaya has a very rich and colourful history. King U Thong, the king of Siam, proclaimed it the capital of his kingdom in 1351, following escape from a smallpox outbreak in Lop Buri. During its glory days, it became known as one of the largest cities in the world, sometimes referred to as the Venice of the East (because of its river canal). Ayutthaya Kingdom was ruled under five dynasties with a total of 33 kings. Everything was almost happy I guess until something life-changing happened. Ayutthaya was attacked and defeated by Burmese Armies in 1767, leaving the capital in ashes and the territory split. The war was a continuation of the centuries-long warfare between the two states. Those who survived abandoned the kingdom and mostly relocated to today’s capital – Bangkok.

More than 200 years later, Ayutthaya has now fully recovered, considered a booming city, and recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The ruins of palaces and monasteries, serve as a living reminder of the province’s golden years.

I started my expedition (without a hat and SP4 protection) under a scorching sun and unbearable heat. The sites I visited include the Ayutthaya Historical Park, which is comprised of five temples - Wat Ratchaburana, Wat Mahathat, Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Wat Phra Ram, and Phra Mongkhon Bopit.

Wat Phra Ram is the site of the first Ayutthaya king's cremation.

Wat Ratchaburana was built by King Borommarachathirat II in memory of his elder brothers Ay and Yi, who were killed in a duel over the succession to the throne.

Wat Phra Sri Sanphet was the grandest and holiest temple on the site of the old Royal Palace. The temple was used exclusively for royal ceremonies.

Wat Mongkhon Bophit houses the large bronze and gilded Buddha named Phra Mongkhon Bophit. Unfortunately, the temple is under renovation for two years, so I was unable to see the Buddha.

Wat Mahathat is the most popular among the temples because of its iconic and mystifying attraction - the Buddha’s head surrounded and protected by overgrown roots of a bodhi tree. There is no factual history of how the Buddha head got entangled with the roots but it seems to be a mystery since during the war, several Buddha images were desecrated, vandalized and looted. One story suggests that a thief was trying to smuggle the head out of the main temple but he couldn’t get it out beyond the walls. And as the years pass by, the roots started to grow around the head as if it were a shield meant to safeguard the Buddha from people with evil intent.

Other temples nearby are the Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon, the former home of Buddhist monks ordained and trained at the Monastery of Phra Wanaratanathen in Ceylon.

The Wat Chaiwatthanaram, the first temple constructed by King Prasat Thong as a tribute to his mother's residence in that area.

Wat Suwandararam, an impressive white and gold temple, built by the father of King Yodfa, boasts of several gold Buddha images and beautiful mural paintings.

Wat Lokaya Sutha has this colossal outdoor reclining Buddha image called Phra Bhuddhasaiyart.

  

Wat Worachettharam, built by King Ekathosarot, has a crematorium in honor of his elder brother King Naresuan who died while leading an army to attack King Tong-U in Burma.

  

Wat Monthop is the grandest riverside monastery I’ve seen in Ayutthaya.

The Wat Tuk is guarded with life-size zebra statues. According to academicians, zebra symbolizes safety. So anyone who prays at them will be kept away from harm.

The Ayothaya Floating Market has over 200 shops of foods, souvenirs, local products and crafts.  Adjacent to the market is the Elephant Village where tourists can take an elephant tour to see the fields and ancient ruins in the neighbourhood. Elephant is Thailand’s national symbol and most revered animal.  

After a tiring day of visiting the temples and attractions of Ayutthaya, it’s always good to be welcomed back by Phuttal; savor the delicacy of this city lovingly prepared by Duke and Peeranut, and witness the glorious end of day by the river.

Ayutthaya exceeded all my expectations; it has so much more to offer than an incredible slice of Siamese history. This wonderful destination, is never just a place, but a great way of experiencing things.

Ayutthaya is accessible by bus, van or train (one hour) from Bangkok. Phuttal Residence can be booked via AirBnb and located near historical attractions of Ayutthaya.