April 13, 2016

Kahanamoku Inn, Baler

“You know, there are so many waves coming in all the time, you don't have to worry about that. Take your time — wave comes. Let the other guys go; catch another one.”
- Duke Kahanamoku


Only a surfer would name his home after Duke Kahanamoku. Definitely not a ballerina or a furrier. This was demonstrated by Jessal, a surfer who fell in love with the waves of Baler and later on decided, together with the love of his life Camille, to relocate and build a beach house on a foot of a hill in a more quiet and secluded side of the Philippine’s surfing capital. They named it Kahanamoku Inn, as their own way of immortalizing the Hawaiian surfing legend, known for his famous “Kahanamoku Kick” swimming technique.


I discovered Kahanamoku via Airbnb and since it was my first time to try the service, I find the whole experience – from booking to staying - quite personal and amazing.

The charming bed and breakfast place is a little paradise for surfers and yogis, and even those who just want a peaceful and me-time weekend get-away. It is a 15-minute drive from the town proper and far from the noise and action of Sabang Beach, so guests are assured of tranquility but at the same time treated with the soothing view of greenery and allure of the Pacific Ocean, which is just right across the street. 

Upon arrival, everyone will be greeted with the street art sign “Give Back to the Ocean”. It seems like an advocacy campaign supporting shark conservation - perhaps a subtle way of saying that a shark too could also be a man’s best friend. Hmm really? Maybe if they no longer have teeth. 


They offer one group studio and five private villa rooms, each equipped with air-conditioning, toilet and bath with hot rain shower. They also provide organic wash, soap and shampoo. The side wall of the villa has a beautiful, vibrant mural of a kalaw bird, a large hornbill species, which sometimes could be found flying in the area. 






There is a wide space for group activities and several hammocks where guests could lounge, relax and perhaps learn a thing or two from Yvon Chouinard’s “Let My People Go Surfing” under the shade of coconut trees.


They also have Shala Shake which functions as a meditation and yoga space, reading nook and dining area. A mural of an ancient Sanskrit greeting “Namaste” (translated roughly as “I bow to the God within you”) and two Teppanom angel statues welcome guests, along with books, yoga mats and pillows, and some life lessons and quotes such as “Share your knowledge”, “Shred ‘til dead” and “Approach love and cooking with reckless abandon”.  









Staying overnight comes with a complimentary continental breakfast. I had Guayusa tea, scrambled eggs and French toast with fresh fruits. I just bought lobsters from the town center for my lunch and dinner. The delectable crustaceans are actually one of the main reasons why I love coming back to Baler.





Though I haven’t met Jessal and Camille personally, they have a wonderful staff - Ate Maricar, Orly, and Jessa – who can capably man the fort whenever they are not around. They also have an adorable pitbull named Java. He didn’t bite me when I was petting him, so I’m certain he’s a good boy. But he looks pensive most of the time. Maybe he just misses Jessal or his other half Tala, terribly.



A short walking distance from Kahanamoku, guests could enjoy swimming at Cemento Beach, surfing at Cobra Reef or sunset-watching from the fish port. Since I’m not a surfer and afraid to suffer the fate of Bethany Hamilton, I just settled for a shallow natural pool, far from the swelling waves and the sharks. Just kidding, there are no sharks in Baler. None that I have heard of.  






But after all the fun that I had, what I would never forget most from my recent summer discovery was Tala. There’s a bittersweet story behind that mural of bull terrier. It must have been really hard for the owners losing someone close to their heart, someone they treated as family. But that’s how life works. And inferring from Duke’s wisdom, there will always be lost opportunities and lost love, as long as we live. And we just have to accept them. And be patient, for someday our wave will come, a wave that could change everything.

I heard a little bundle of joy is on the way soon to Kahanamoku. And I am confident that it will be another reason for Java to wag his tail again.

Kahanamoku Inn
Purok 6, Sitio Cemento
Brgy. Zabali, Baler, Aurora
Tel. No.: 0998-8574851

April 8, 2016

La Cocina de Tita Moning: Goodbye, so long, farewell, au revoir

One of the saddest songs I can listen to over and over again is Paul Tiernan’s How to Say Goodbye. It’s like a lullaby to me, only it pierces the heart. If only I had the voice, this is the song I would probably make a cover of to dedicate to La Cocina de Tita Moning as it will be closing its doors soon.



The moment I heard the sad news, I took it as a sign to finally visit the MalacaƱang heritage house turned fine-dining restaurant. No more excuses, even if it will cost me an arm. As I would like to put it in the words of the Philippine Tatler “it's not every day that one can luxuriate in an ancestral home evocative of a bygone era that will never be replicated.”


Completed in 1937, the two-storey Legarda Mansion is one of the first few Art Deco houses built in Manila. The mansion is owned by the old-rich and prominent family of the late gynecologist Dr. Alejandro Roces Legarda and his wife Ramona “Tita Moning” Hernandez. It has survived the horrors of World War II, which during that time the kind doctor treated wounded American and Japanese soldiers. In 2001, after almost six decades, their granddaughter Suzette Legarda Montinola, with the support of the clan, turned the mansion into a restaurant. She called it La Cocina de Tita Moning, in memory of her grandmother who had wanted then of owning her own restaurant but never had the chance to make her dream come true.


La Cocina has one of the most beautiful salas I’ve seen. Several family photos are on display, along with old furniture, antiques, crystal chandelier, grand piano, and original paintings by National Artist Felix Ressureccion Hidalgo and Juan Luna.






There’s a main dining area and two smaller function rooms for a more intimate and private dining experience. Every table is decorated with fragrant rose petals, fern leaves and candles, evoking elegance and romance. I also found a brochure on the table containing the names and short bio of all the staff and servers. I find this gesture from the owners quite personal as it honors the people who labored behind the success of the restaurant.  




La Cocina features delectable specialty dishes, which are of Spanish-Filipino influence. They, together with the fine-dining set-up, are reminiscent of the grandiose and lavish parties thrown back then by Tita Moning in this house where her culinary skills became a word-of-mouth in the high society circle of Manila. One of the notable guests they had was William Howard Taft, the first commissioner of the US assigned to Manila.


Salsa monja

Arugula salad

Pan grilled salmon on white wine Beurre Blanc and leeks

Chicken a la Kiev
  
Melting chocolate with fruits and ice cream

Queso de bola spread

Before or after dinner, guests can take a tour around the house and discover the history, passions, interests and heirlooms of the Legardas. I was amazed that each and every room was preserved so impeccably – from the medical library of Dr. Legarda and his four children who also became doctors; his house clinic eerily equipped with x-ray machine and a real skeleton; his vintage camera and ham radio showrooms; and the dressing room of his two ballerina daughters.









It was truly a memorable experience, having my first and last old world dining experience at La Cocina. It was like re-living and saying goodbye to one of Manila’s most genteel eras. I just hope that whoever acquires the mansion will still continue to preserve it, not destroy and build some new building or structure on it. I hope I’m not too naive to think that even in real life, there could still be a happy ending.

La Cocina de Tita Moning
San Rafael St., San Miguel
Manila
Tel. No.: 734-2141