I drive, chasing Malico.
Well not really. But this quaint and serene place somewhere in the highland borders of Nueva Vizcaya and Pangasinan captured my heart, instantly, effortlessly the first time I laid my eyes on it. I arrived in the community at dawn, just about in time when the mist and fog slowly fade away, unravelling such beguiling and unspoiled beauty. It’s like the “Switzerland” of the Cagayan Valley Region, surrounded by verdant rolling hills, pine trees and mountains, with everyday weather colder than my heart. The average temperature in summer is 20°C and incredibly lower from November to February.
Historically, culturally, geographically and politically, Malico is a fascinating barangay with a small population of about 500 people. It is quite a rarity, a gem-find among local destinations, offering pristine, almost untouched natural environment, remnants of World War II, and the indigenous culture of Kalanguya tribe. According to old folks, it was named as such because of its winding (liko-liko in local dialect) river and roads, snaking some 1,300 meters up the Caraballo Mountains. Being the largest settlement of Kalanguya tribe, it was also declared an ancestral domain, belonging not only to one municipality but two. For now, the 710-hectare land area is shared both by San Nicolas, Pangasinan, and Sta. Fe, Nueva Vizcaya; and from what I’ve heard there’s no ill territorial dispute between the two municipalities. The poblacion is digitally detached from the world – no mobile signal, no internet connection.
My home base for my two-day Malico R&R and exploration is the Malico Country Inn, a rustic and charming vacation-place turned bed and breakfast place of Edgardo “Ed” Amistad (President of the UCPB-CIIF Foundation and adopted son of Kalanguya community).
Sir Ed discovered Malico way back in 1995, and was simply enraptured with the place and its cold climate. In one fraction of a moment, he fell in the kind of love that takes forever to get over. He became close with the tribe’s chieftain (who recently just passed away), and has been helping the community ever since, that he was eventually invited to become an adopted member of the tribe. While planting of crops, particularly sayote, ginger and other vegetables, is the main source of livelihood of the people, Sir Ed is instrumental in developing the eco-tourism initiative in the community. Notably, since 2016, he has been helping in organizing the annual Hulpon Festival which showcases the tribe’s culture and values.
Sir Ed’s son Pocholo ably and patiently answered all my queries prior my visit; and his caretakers Ate Ellen and Rizza warmly welcomed me to their inn and kept me nourished all throughout my stay.
The main cottage of the inn is good for family or group of four. It has four single beds, its very own living room and porch, private bath, kitchen and dining area. The furniture, design and artifacts enhancing every space and corner, made the cottage appear like an antique gallery. It has a grand piano, paintings, movie poster of my Classic favorite “Casablanca”, rifles, lamps, wooden and stone sculptures, vintage stuff, and war relics. Sir Ed surely has this penchant and refined taste for anything old, timeless and ethnic. His impressive collection actually made the place wonderfully eccentric and soulful.
Since I want a more authentic Malico experience, I stayed in one of their Ifugao huts. Situated in the most elevated part of the property, the traditional accommodation has mattress, warm blanket, and private bath (with heater and bidet). The modern comfort afforded me a nice, decent sleep despite a little struggle to acclimatize and fight off the cold in the evening and early morning.
Buti na lang, the inn has a fireplace that kept me warm during dinner.
Their food by the way are cooked lutong bahay-style. They were all delish particularly the inihaw na bangus and liempo, talbos ng sayote, and tinolang manok. Brewed coffee is also served unlimited.
The inn also has a chapel and museum which displays bululs and tribal artifacts of the tribe. Revered by the tribe, bululs (or rice god deities) are carved wooden figures used to guard the rice crop.
The inn also overlooks the sprawling, pastureland where horses, cows, carabaos, and piglets freely roam and feed on grasses. The simple, pastoral life and landscape reminds me of an Amorsolo painting minus the people. The locals are so lucky to wake up every morning and enjoy this view.
Sir Ed and his friend Noel Yamog developed a map of all the tourist spots within and nearby Malico, which I diligently followed (well almost). I actually wanted to hire a habal-habal to take me to all the spots but I was advised by Ate Ellen to just take a walk so I could appreciate more the scenery along the way.
True enough, the sights are marvelous. Pero sa totoo lang pag sinasabi nila na 1 hour lang yan lakarin, para sa akin ay parang one day na iyon.
The Salacsac Pine Forest (just behind the Salacsas Elementary School), where air is sweeter and scented by dipterocarps, is a scenic picnic and camping site. The school by the way is no longer functional since there are only very few kids living in the vicinity. A cemetery hill could also be found near the area.
On a hill just a few minute walk from the inn is the Salacsac Pass Monument, a memorial honouring thousands of Filipino, Japanese and American soldiers who perished in the area during the ferocious battle of February-June 1945. It also offers another vantage point of the community.
In another pine forest, along the Villa Verde Trail, one could marvel at the abandoned and dilapidated Sherman Tank that was once ambushed by the enemies and was forced to leave behind by the American soldiers during World War II. The site, now a beautiful park, was the battleground of the US Army 32nd (Red Arrow) Division and the Japanese Army during the war.
Imugan falls, a 35-foot drop of refreshing mountain spring, which is located in a neighboring barangay, is a common side trip especially among riders and bikers. I didn’t dare take a dip. The cold water really bothers me anyway.
Talal ridge, where the mobile phone signal finally gets resurrected, is the perfect spot to view the sunset. I drank two cups of hot Milo from the lone, small sari-sari store while waiting for the glorious end of the day. I can’t help but think that it’s truly a joy and a rare opportunity to visit a place where you can walk, run and be free; where you can simply just be.
After sunset,
temperature abruptly drops. And although love keeps the biting cold out better
than a jacket, a cold weather starter pack is really needed. Thank heaven, I’m
always ready.
Malico is exceptionally,
extremely #malicool.
From Manila, take Solano or Tugegarao-bound bus (Florida, Victory Liner
or Five-Star bus station in Sampaloc or Cubao) and get off at the Municipal
Hall of Sta. Fe, Nueva Vizcaya. In Sta. Fe, rent a tricycle going to Malico. Tricycles
are available in the junction going to Imugan and Malico as early as 5 am. There
are jeepneys going to Malico but they usually service only once a day and on
certain days. Malico may also be reached from San Nicolas, Pangasinan but since
the roads are still heavily developed and under construction, only single
motors could pass thru. Almost all the tourist spots in Malico is accessible by
habal-habal (sometimes by tricyle) or by foot.
Malico Country Inn
Malico, Sta. Fe, Nueva Vizcaya
Tel. Nos.: 0908-8632982 (Pocholo)
0997-6175801 (tricycle driver in
Sta. Fe)
