Tuko is a Pinoy term for gecko. In
the Philippines, 26 species of gecko are believed to be endemic or cannot be
found anywhere else in the world. The demand for these exotic lizards as
traditional medicine ingredients has reportedly led to the rampant capture and
trade of these poor reptiles.
Amazingly though, in a not so
well-known, secluded and beautiful tropical beach resort in Abra de Ilog, Occidental
Mindoro, geckos live harmoniously with the people.
Abra de Ilog, despite its vast tourism potential, is still an underrated municipality and mainly serves as a gateway to Southern Mindoro. But for those who want a serene weekend get-away and perhaps an unforgettable “tuko experience”, I know of a secret paradise tucked in one of the coves of this sleepy town. It is owned by a German national and environmentalist Michaela Webb who named her gorgeous beach villa Tuko Beach Resort because of the geckos that live within the confines of her jungle-like home. Somehow her place reminds me of the famous seaside villa in the Affair to Remember.
Reservation is mainly by email and suggested to be made a week in advance. In my case, it took 4 days to finalize everything (reason for this is that cellphone signal in the area is limited, only Smart is working while Globe is intermittent to zero). Michaela suggested that I take the 6 am Ro-ro trip from Batangas to Abra de Ilog, however I arrived earlier and took the 2 am trip instead. Since the boatman arranged by Michaela will be fetching me by 8 am, I decided to wait at the pier and have breakfast first at Iraya Hotel.
The boat that picked me up was the Rexen, which could fit comfortably maximum of 8 passengers. From the pier, it took about 20 minutes to reach the resort.
Michaela was already waiting by the shore when I arrived. The resort situated along the coast, is sharing the space with two other residential mansions also owned by foreigners. It is perched on an elevated area, with a garden-forest like-feel. There is an abundance of trees, plants, and flowers growing wild and free, some of them planted by Michaela. The air is fresh, accompanied by the soothing sound of waves. I fell in love with the place right away.
The main common lounge area also doubles as the restaurant called Maritime Blue. It is quaintly adorned with wooden furniture, totem poles, Iraya handicrafts made by Mangyans, and pawikan and tuko wood art works.
Lala and Ginger, the resident dog and cat, also love to hang around and play with guests. Lala is so adorable and likes to be petted from time to time.
There are 5 stand-alone, distinct houses with 6 room accommodations of superior standard, each personally designed by Michaela. She only accepts maximum of 20 guests at any one time so everybody could enjoy the intimate ala “Robinson Crusoe” island atmosphere and experience truly European-Mindorenean hospitality.
I stayed at Seahorse Penthouse, a romantic and spacious Mediterranean-inspired room with one bedroom, large private bathroom, cozy living room with pantry, and veranda that partially overlooks the sea and the lush trees of coconut, buri, and mahogany. Windows are thrust open to allow the balmy sea breeze to flow through; really no need to use their airconditioner. The room is neat and clean, colorful, and blends well with nature.
Other rooms, either good for couple or family, are Nautilus Suite (just below the Seahorse Penthouse), Kabibi Family Flat (which has a terrace that affords a glimpse of the sea), Bird Cottage (behind the main lounge), Tuko Cottage (a circular modern hut), and Under the Mango Tree House (a loft which is literally under a mango tree).
There is an outdoor Jacuzzi, which unfortunately is not working anymore.
The recreation and reading room known as Kabibi Lounge, offers several board and traditional Filipino games. It also has a mini-library with several good novels and summer beach reads.
Some water sports equipment and toys are available free of use.
My favourite spot in the resort is the Lanai for it has a stress-melting view of Isla Verde Passage. It is perfect for meditation and some muni-muni. This must have been the vista that captured the heart of Michaela many years ago and could be one of the hundred reasons why she chose to relocate for good to the Philippines.
On the wall is a nice artwork of what seems like a kikay tuko made of puka shells and transparent green marbles.
The resort offers half-board meals to guests at their semi al fresco restaurant. And take note that these are not just ordinary “silog” meals that are usually offered by typical resorts. For breakfast, Michaela prepared bread with fruit jams, orange juice, French-pressed coffee, mixed fruits and cereals, home-made longganisa with rice, and scrambled eggs.
For lunch, she cooked pasta topped with parmesan cheese with garden salad for side.
For dinner, I was surprised that she prepared a 6-course meal consisting of nido soup, yellow fin tuna salpicao (which tastes divine because of the minced garlic), pan-fried filet of durado, mixed vegetables, and pinaula steamed rice.
And when she served the dessert – banana split with coffee ice cream, and caramel and choco fudge, chocolate chip cookie and cream – and had my first taste of it, I died inside. I never expected na makakarating ang ice cream sa lugar na ito because of its isolation. Afterwards, I slept so full and fully satisfied.
For two days (aside from eating and relaxing), I also explored the nearby coves, beaches, and the small fishing village. Pathways weave around the coastline; and walking along the cliffs that overlook the exceptionally rich marine biodiversity spot and azure waters, is such a joyous experience that surely I will miss when I’m back in the city. Mikaela was telling me that I should stay for one more day so I could visit other secret spots of Abra de Ilog.
Beaches are undeveloped, virgin and pristine, and most of the time devoid of people. No wonder that exotic wildlife has chosen this peaceful environment as their natural sanctuary; even one of the coves is a breeding ground for turtles. Various rock formations and rocky inlets enhance the seascape; some even form natural pools.
Mountains are verdant; and the sight of water buffalo grazing on the pastoral land reminded me of an Amorsolo painting.
The river is crystal clear with a bed full of beautiful, large pebbles. I enjoyed swimming both in the river and the sea as if it was made exclusively for my solitary pleasure.
And watching the Udalo dusk and dawn made me almost lachrymose. I know my time to leave paradise is nearing. I envy Michaela for finding her true calling. I know she made quite an impact in this local community, from saving the endangered pawikans to helping the fisherfolks, local children and Mangyans in so many ways.
Tuko Beach Resort exceeded my expectations
in every way. The hospitality of the people that runs it is exceptional. It’s a
home for people who yearn for a picturesque solitude. The surroundings are breathtaking,
idyllic, unusually quiet except for the relaxing sound of nature and the
constant call of tokay geckos. In the stillness of the moment, I could hear
even the soft whisper of the wind. Love
me. It hums. Oh how often do we hear those words? Only uttered differently.
And sometimes in silence.
From Manila, take Batangas Pier-bound bus (bus
stations in Cubao or Buendia). From the pier, take Abra de Ilog boat. Better
take the 3 or 5 am boat to arrive early in the resort. From Abra de Ilog pier,
the resort can be reached by land (via tricycle plus 30 minutes of walking) but
faster (about 20 minutes) if by boat. Mikaela can arrange transportation to and
from her resort to the pier.
Tuko Beach
Resort
Munting
Buhangin, Brgy. Udalo
Abra de
Ilog, Occidental Mindoro
Tel. No.:
0919-8366269
Email: tukobeachresort@yahoo.com
